Dynamic Range Collaboration
2017-12-20 (revised 2022-01-08) by Bill Claff
The purpose of the collaboration is to collect photographic dynamic range information for a wide variety of cameras.
Any brand and model of camera can be used provided raw data can be captured.
A rigorous approach requires pairs of exposures taken at
different light intensities.
However, this expedited procedure uses single exposures and a grid to produce very good results.
You should be able to
right-click and save from the following links as necessary.
Place these files all in the same directory.
Knowledgeable readers will know to put them in an appropriate directory on your DOS path but a new directory where you will perform the test is fine.
The target(s) for
the required images is displayed using the following program:
you can use the following two static images instead of the DR_grid program:
Choose a fast lens
that can take images of your computer monitor at a comfortable distance.
I used a 50mm f/1.8D AF-Nikkor to collect my data.
Set all noise
reduction settings to off (or a low as possible). In particular do not use long
exposure noise reduction.
Do not use ISO Auto.
Remember to take RAW
If your camera does
both 14‑bit and 12‑bit then it is preferable to use 14‑bit.
If your camera supports electronic
and mechanical shutter then use the mechanical shutter.
You will be using
Manual mode and Manual focus. Make sure Exposure Compensation is 0.
Run DR_Grid or put
DR-Flat.jpg on your computer screen.
Resize the window so
it’s somewhat larger than you can view in the viewfinder at closest focus and
At this first screen
adjust your monitor brightness so you are properly exposed at 1/30s with the
lens at f/4 and at your native ISO (the lowest numbered ISO for your camera).
1/30s is ideal but if you cannot achieve 1/30s or don't want to adjust your monitor do not worry.
Switch the exposure
from 1/30s to 1/1000s (5 stops darker) and press ‘G’ on your keyboard to
proceed to the grid or put DR_Grid.jpg on your computer screen in place of
If you did not achieve 1/30s in the preceding step then choose a shutter speed that is 5 stops faster than the shutter speed you can achieve.
So if proper exposure is 1/15s then switch the exposure to 1/500s.
Take a slightly out
of focus image of the grid. The image must be enough out of focus that no
screen detail is visible at 100%
It's a common mistake to make the images too out of focus!
Don't crop off the upper left of the grid. It is particularly important.
For all cameras that
vary amplification when ISO is changed (most cameras except for almost all
Take an image at each ISO such as 100, 125, 160, 200, etc.
Having data for intermediate ISO values is especially important for cameras with two-stage amplifiers.
Including any Lo or Hi (expanded) ISO that your camera may have such as Lo 1.0 or Hi 1.0.
For cameras that do
not vary amplification when ISO is changed (Sigma models except SD15, DP1x, and
Decrease exposure time another stop; for example from 1/500s to 1/1000s.
Take either 5 (for EV steps of 1/2) or 7 (for EV steps of 1/3EV) images lengthening exposure with each image.
For example: 1/1000s, 1/800s, 1/640s, 1/500s, 1/400s, 1/320s, 1/250s. (or 1/1000s, 1/800s, 1/500s, 1/400s, 1/250s)
Since you are only
increasing the ISO setting the images will get brighter and brighter as you
In the end the image may be almost all white.
Here are the thumbnails from an example:
Here's 100% zoom on a good PDR image:
Notice the grid is distinguishable but the screen detail is not.
It's OK if the grid
doesn't fill the frame or isn't perfectly square, for example:
Contact me at BClaff@comcast.net to gain
access to my Dropbox to transfer your files or to arrange for an alternate